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GallaghersArt

Miscellaneous 3D Prints and Source Files

Updated Monday, February 21, 2022
Posted Monday, January 17, 2022
Gallaghersart dsc03960 from Miscellaneous 3D Prints GallaghersArt_gallaghersart_dsc03960.jpg - Skew Test ver. 0.40

You will find various 3D Models and prints that I have made.
This Page will be updated over time as I add new ones.
Enjoy! `mike

Wire Management

Wire management to relieve cable pressure on Ethernet Switch

Skewer Tent Enclosure

Working with what I had I made an enclosure / tent for my Z9M3 CoreXY printer.

I have left and right version of a 45degree angle for holding grill skewers that are around 6mm so some work will be needing to be done to fit . hole is smaller than I needed, as the skewers are of varying size I made the hole to tightly fit the smallest I found.

Cut four skewers so they end up as tall as your filament tubes, once heated the heat will raise the roof up. I connected the side skewers with another skewer to make them sturdier.

Once the 4 parts on unit make a tent shape out of them, some duct tape works good, just make sure no sticky tape part is left out as the emergency tent will want to stick to them.

I then added 4 magnets to each corner. The corners should be at the Hight of the filament tubes. Once closed and heated the heat will raise the roof up, so do not worry.

I used one blanket for the back and left side. (using magnet to attach)

Then one blanket for the roof and right side.

I then place the 3rd blanker to be the front “door” .

While the room is dark and if you have lights on your bed you can see through the blankets.

No need to tape up seems and such, I may during winter, but right now in summer the gaps allow excess heat to escape. And I can adjust these upper holes to allow heat to escape. The tents just hang, no sealed or lower connections

With using magnets the sides can be easily removed, and if you fold from door and right side over top, you can remove whole unit as a single piece to place aside unit it is needed again.

Color wheel with variations

This is an updated version of my color wheel with variations.

I have a Zonestar Z9M3 (3into1) using marlin and the source files included are just gcode I used, so you may need to adjust, need 300mmx300mm bed.

2 layers both 0.3mm. I sliced with only 1 layer, so second is just a copy so nozzle comes into contact with all ready printed 2nd layers.

1st layer is for color changing. Works good for the prints going from one color to the next. But the color wheel I need to adjust a bit more, maybe 3 layers.

Images should be marked, So far I think each brand of filament will get a different color wheel.

Working on CMY, (CMYK/W, CMYKW soon) I want a red going to yellow while using CMY.

If you make or sell Filament or Mixing hotends I would love to test them out, send me a demo to keep and report on.

I will have more of a report with additional images and microscope images of mixed prints soon on my web site, once done I will have link here.

**Current Inland Color wheel needs adjusting on the left color changes and more yellow though out, working on that now/soon.

If you print your own, you will need to adjust the gcode manual for your unit / filaments

temps autobed level before print purge at -20y 220x

If you print your own please share, I would also love permission to share different types of prints.

Enjoy!

AC Power meter addition to Power Strip

Simple Power meter added to side of metal power strip.

Unit used can be found here https://www.aliexpress.com/item/LCD-Digital-Voltmeter-Ammeter-Volt-Amp-Power-Kwh-Panel-Meter-AC-80-300V-100A/32825795471.html

Need to drill 2 holes and add protection of sharp holes. One is for magnet, The other is for power.

2 M5 holes for attachment and if your power strip is metal and able to have M5 holes tapped do so or use nuts.

Once in place and secured, printed box will cover all wires and then attached bottom plate to close box.

I left the tabs of the meter to be hand filed to secure meter in printed unit.

Enjoy!

CoreXY motors belt covers.

I’m using Railcores X and Y motor mounts for my CoreXY printer.

These are the lower and high belt levels X & Y motor covers.

I have my unit with the motors up front, so I have more access to printer. The belts cross on the back.

I needed something to cover up the gears before I get my hair caught in the machine.

Also included is a drill jig template so you can correctly drill M3 hole placements. (M3 is printed)

Print also has M3 holes printed into it, that may require some pre drilling to fit your screw size. And the printed hole depth is 10mm.

Updated and source files will be found on my website, also once I get M3 heat inserts I will update files for heat inserts. Enjoy!

Skew Test

Askew Test and Adjustment

This is my take on a skew test and adjustment. 1st version works with a 152mm caliper, 2nd version will be for a larger caliper. (right now its just the X and Y, still need to print and test the Z options, coming soon).

The test block is an 116mm square that prints in less than 20min. I found that the good Gates belts on my CoreXY stretch over time. So I print one of these before any prints that squareness and size matter. Down the road once I have my own 3D print farm I can have these as verification for customers to know how tight the scale and askew are.

The test rig needs to be printed on a printer all ready square. Then print test blocks on units that needs adjusting. Down the road I hope to have a metal version of the test rig milled.

How to use:

Using a large 2x4x6” machinist block zero out all 4 dial gauges. It is best to leave a mm or so of space on the side while block is against bottom of test rig. This will give you some space if text block is out of square.

Print test block.
Bulges from base or top from the elephant effect should not matter on test rig. (indents are made in test rig to ignore these, so no need to sand down.) the ends are flat to measure with caliper, with the corners rounded to give better prints. If these rounded corners still pop out you may need to carefully sand them away. You do not want to sand the areas the dial gauges meetup. If they do move seam to another location (I use all Z seam on left corner, as bulges on this part also have clearance from test rig. The idea is no sanding should be done, just quick tests.

Grind down the ends of the grub screw or bolt so you do not damage your dial gauges. They should be held in-place with very little force. I using M3 20mm bolts that I tight with my fingers.

Place test block in test rig. Hold block against bottom 2 dial gauges, should be Zero. Then slide to the left until one of the 2 dial gauges reaches zero. The other dial gauge is you adjustment for X and Y.

If top dial gauge has a positive number then enter this as a positive for (duet 3) M556 S95 X.1315 Y0 Z0 (my top gauge is reading 0.1315). IF the bottom dial gauge has a positive number hen you would enter a NEGATIVE number i.e M556 S95 X-.1315 Y0 Z0.

The small test block has a distance of 95mm between dial gauges. Should be 152mm from corner to corners, 116mm sides, and 7mm thick

Z test will also be 95mm, and will post in a week or so.

Source files with a FreeCAD files so you can adjust the hookup points of the dial gauges to adjust for different lengths and shaft diameter using a spreadsheet in FreeCAD.

The light Blue Cells
in the spreadsheet are to be changed to match your Dial gauges. Some changes may break the Fillet or chamfer that may need to be removed from the model tree, and then added back once you get the model to your settings. If things get real weird than you may need to fix the master sketch.

The Fillet’s for the corners of the test block and also the test mount where the test block is meant to be flush to the mount are required. If not you will get minor bulges on these corners that will make measurements incorrect.

Enjoy!

`mike

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